Sunday, February 15, 2009

The Chanel 2.55 purse_ its true history



Three mysterious digits are used to refer to one of the world’s most famous bags: Coco Chanel’s classic quilted purse with chain shoulder strap, to be later reissued by Karl Lagerfeld. Leading us to consider: how has this accessory managed to remain so popular for over fifty years, a dream object for generations of women, old and young alike? There are several explanations: firstly it is a perfect archetype of its genre which has won a place in the collective imagination, an epitome of luxury cleverly reproduced by the Fashion Maison in a series of similar guises, each one extremely actual and phenomenal. The 2.55 is a unique and exclusive purse, often imitated but never equalled. A favourite with both women and girls, adding a classy touch to the former and a carefree air to the latter. So where and when did it originate? The shoulder bag debuted in Mademoiselle Chanel’s collections in 1930. In 1955, Coco revamped the purse by introducing the characteristic quilting, early models were made from jersey, followed by ultra soft “ plongĂ© “ (dry drummed) lambskin. Other distinguishing features include: quilting, a gold chain shoulder strap, sometimes interwoven with a strip of leather and the trademark double «C» fastening, with plated screws or 3 microns. Most models also have burgundy leather lining, at least one inner zip pocket, meticulous internal finishing, the name Chanel printed in gold letters with the registered R trademark, to guarantee against unauthorised reproductions, and a numbered certificate of authenticity to accompany the number shown inside the bag. This “identity card“ acts as a document to distinguish the real product form its imitations. Two thirds of all Chanel bags are produced in the company plants in France, whilst the remainder are manufactured in Italy, in particular evening and more sporty models, under rigorous Servizio Produzione (Production Service) control. Each 2.55 (5 was Coco’s lucky number) is based on 180 different operations, from the initial cutting to the final assembly, a combination of advanced technology and traditional workmanship, including cutting, assembly and chain weaving. Materials used include: jersey and excellent sheepskin from the Millau region of central France, tanned, dyed in drums and left to dry in the air, before being subjected to a series of tests: colour fastness, grain strength and UV ray resistance. Other skins: calfskin, suede, both calf and kid, grainĂ© calfskin and crocodile, (the finest stomach hides from guaranteed sources), and ostrich: the bag’s beauty lies in its smoothness and cut “pearls “. Velvet satin, grosgrain, tweed, flannel and towelling are also often used, according to creative bent. Internal features: classic black or navy leather bags always sport a burgundy lining whilst other colours are used for tone on tone lining (excepting green purses lined in black), whilst the black jersey versions are lined in red grosgrain. Thanks to all the above proposals, and the meticulous workmanship, from choice of materials to realisation, the 2.55 can be likened to a custom made product, realised in an atelier, personally made to be taken everywhere, and to guard all our secrets, a treasured family heirloom to be handed

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